DAY 9 - Thursday, May 31 - OFF TO MFANGANO ISLAND

Boy, talk about "trains, planes and automobiles".  It's a real trek to get to this place, the most remote location I've traveled to in Kenya.  One of the largest islands on Lake Victoria, about 80 km SW of Kisumu (the city of Obama).  I took a small plane to Kisumu, was picked up by a driver and drove 2 hours or so to the Mbita Ferry dock.  I hooked up with a med student from US, Ben Pederson, who helped me find my way.  Nice guy, great conversation.  See below photo:

Ben P at Ferry dock

We took a 1 hour ferry ride to what looked like some sort of peninsula.  Next task was to schlep across this stretch of dusty land on foot (luggage and all) to reach the other shoreline and catch a motorized canoe to the island.  Normally, they take the public boat.  Large and slow.  Today, however, my hosts were gracious enough to bring the "speed boat", a small motorized canoe they use for emergency transport, which takes about 45 minutes.

Photo thanks to Ben P

Ben Pederson and Chas Salmen

Beautiful island.  Although, I could have gone without the swarms of lake flies (smothering at times!). The island, I'm told, is about 54 km around and 26,000 people or so.  Suba and Lua tribes mostly.  Claire Cunningham with Project CURE introduced me to these guys and was inspired by their activities.  Chas and brother Marco, founders of this project,  are also both med students.  Chas did a research project on the link between the local fishing industry and HIV.  Very interesting.  This island has THE highest incidence of HIV in Kenya, about 30%.  Chas concluded it is mostly due to fishermen coming to these islands with lots of cash from recent harvests but nothing to spend it on besides prostitution.  He points out, however, there may be a self-correcting mechanism in place.  They have so grossly over-fished the lake, yield is a tenth of what it was 10 years ago.  No fish, no cash, no crazy fishermen driven prostitution.  Yet, no economy and the people suffer.  Ugh.  Complicated.

Anyway, I took a tour of the island and the local medical facilities, which are the following photos.

Sena Level 3 Government Medical Clinic

"Maternity ward"

Typical patient ward

This medical clinic is very typical.  No doctor.  Staffed and managed by a MO (medical officer - about on the level of a PA in the US).  Very challenged facility both in terms of lack of resources and management skills.  The only way Project CURE can help here is by entering into a partnership with the hospital on the mainland.  Given my experiences in working with government facilities, this is a huge uncertainty.  We'll see.

Richard, the E.D. and me at Governor's Camp 

DAY 8 - Wednesday May 30 - BACK TO NAIROBI

Today was a part travel part relaxation day.  I got caught up on the blog and got some shopping done for friends back home.

Steph, you asked for photos of the landscape and surroundings.  Here you go.  Sorry no animals or Safari shots this trip.

Village on Lake Victoria - horrible water conditions, used for bathing and their "Cho" (bathroom)

Another typical village scene

Common means of carrying stuff

Roadside vendor. We bought lunch here.  Avocados on Chapiti

A Muslim Mosque

Ferry landing - Lake Victoria

Their motorized canoe transport to Mfangano Island

Typical Village street and setting

This morning's catch of Pike, about 80 kg and about 1000 shillings (around $12 USD)

Typical roadside shops

Typical roadside storefronts

Kids at a local park playing musical chairs

Little Daisy, my dear friend Steve's adorable 2 year old daughter

More landscape photos to come.  I'm headed to Kijabe today, a different part of the country.

DAY 7 - Tuesday May 29 - THE ORPHANAGE REUNION

Little Moses

Kids at Sunday Church

Elizabeth - the director

Today was my most emotional day.  I met Rick and Ann Smith, a very nice couple from Chicago who moved to the Oasis orphanage shortly after my support had to end.  Despite my failures "on the hill", Rick and Ann have been able continue the good fight for those kids by actually living there for 2 years now! The orphanage is prospering under their guidance. This was the only real hope for those kids, given the systemic corruption of the adults and church elders overseeing the orphanage.   So we shared stories about Elizabeth, little Moses, Simon and the rest.

I presented to Rick and Ann a box of first aid items we packed at Project CURE and then continued our conversation at the Church of God compound.  Now THAT was something I was uncertain about, given the serious accusations made of the Church of God elder.  The good news is that the meeting was one of sincere apology for the corruption and the failure of our project.  But it was nice to have some closure and, at the same time, see Agnes and Joseph, my dear friends that actually live on this compound.

Agnes is a nurse that I've worked with extensively and Joseph was the electrician I hired to wire the orphanage and various medical clinics.  I brought some gifts for them, souvenirs actually from Colorado, which is what the next photo is about.

Judy, Joseph, Agnes and Ole Punda

We concluded our "reunion" around 3ish and Steve and I drove back to Nairobi.  We got to the hotel around 8pm and I crashed

DAY 6 - Monday May 28 LOGORIAN SUB-DISTRICT HOSPITAL

Damn, my phone isn't working.  Ugh.  Big problem.  Strange really.  Never had any problems on previous visits.  May have to buy a local phone.  In the meantime, Steve (my driver) is gracious in making my calls.

It's about a 1 hour drive to Logorian from Kilgoris.  About 25 miles due south (yes - 1 hour to drive 25 miles!!).  Really rough roads, but we got there around 11ish.

Robert turned my visit into a big deal.  Regional medical directors from the government were there and all of the local politicians and leaders.

This is a fun leg of the trip for me.  More of a celebration really.  About a year ago, I financed a water project for them and having abundant, fresh water now is HUGE.  I took a few photos (above) of their water well, pump and stuff we had repaired or replaced.

The Amazing Dr. Robert Mutula and my transportation from Kilgoris

Above are some photos of the group of local and regional officials Mutula gathered for my arrival


So, we inspect the items that arrived this week on the container.  They are especially excited about the dental equipment!!  They have never provided dental services out here (a big problem) and whats crazy is that the dentist in Kilgoris has nothing to do because no one has any dental equipment.  Well, they do now!

Since the items just arrived, they've had really no time to organize or implement them.  Consequently, I didnt have many photo ops.

Infant warmer

Rut row!  In the big meeting, they decided to give me ANOTHER Masai name.  Geeze.  OLKISHUYIET - MEANING "SAVE LIVES".  I'm struggling with the pronunciation.  Very close to "O' Kiss you shit".  So there you have it.  :)

Robert actually got married last December.  He's in his early 40's and getting married that late is very unusual in Kenya.  I met his wife.  Very nice lady.  She fixed us an awesome dinner that night, when I presented my wedding gift to them

Robert and Wife with Wedding Gifts - matching watches

Kenyan's sometimes say "AMERICANS HAVE THE WATCHES, KENYANS HAVE THE TIME".  So true and funny given my choice of gift for them.  I actually researched appropriate wedding gifts in the Kenyan culture, but a goat just wouldn't fit in my suit case!

The only sobering aspect of today was that Robert told me he's going back to graduate school to specialize in surgery.  He leaves Logorian in September.  Boy, without him, I'm not sure what our future holds in Logorian.

DAY 5 - Sunday May 27 LOGORIAN SUB-DISTRICT HOSPITAL

My gosh they have good coffee here!  And the fresh mango and eggs.  Whew!  I could get used to this.  Oh yes, I can't forget to mention Tusker beer.  I'm good.

So today I return to Masai land, where I spent so much time during previous trips working on the Church of God medical clinics and the Oasis orphanage, that I feel so in love with.  Bunch of memories and emotions are percolating.

My good friend, Steve Ndungu, is going to drive me to Kilgoris. 25,000 shs for 3 days driving (about $297 US)  The roads are substantially improved and flying there turned out to not be an option anyway.  It was good to spend 4 hours with Steve talking about family, Kenya and such.

We arrived in Kilgoris around 5ish and went directly to the Sister's Convent, where they have guest houses I stay at.  Waiting for us at the gate was Dr. Robert Mutula, who I got to know previously and become good friends.  Robert is an excellent doctor and a man of impeccable integrity, not always easy to find over here.  He is the man who convinced me to finance a container to his hospital in Logorian.  A  government "Sub-district" hospital with about 25 beds.  Too small to receive an entire container, so we shared the load with Muthale.  Much thanks to Bishop for helping with logistics!!

DAY 4 - Saturday, May 26 PROJECT CURE MIRACLE DAY

Off to Kyeni Hospital in Embu, the other Catholic hospital Bishop oversees.   We have now shipped two half containers to this facility (2009 and 2011).  Truly THE biggest success story for me in Kenya!!  My gosh.  When we did an assessment of this facility in 2009, the hospital was a disaster!  It had lost it's electricity due to non-payment and had a horrible water supply.  This hospital has a substantial compound with at least a dozen structures and 120 hospital beds, yet they were only seeing 12-15 patients a day, 5-6000 annually. I had a real concern whether they even had the management skill, capacity or volume to utilize a container.

Thank God I'm a stubborn ass.  I agreed to finance the first (shared) container in 2009 and another in 2011.  Wow!  I guess the old saying "if you build it, they will come" is sometimes true!  Dr. Maina informed me today that the hospital saw over 120,000 patients last year and are currently at FULL capacity!  He said to me:

"PROJECT CURE'S CONTAINER HELPED SERVE OR SAVE OVER 100,000 LIVES"!!

Now that's what we're after!!  Hey Doug, if this is true, imagine how many lives this adds up to over Project C.U.R.E's 25 year history!

By example, I took a photo of the maternity ward (which they did not have previously) we equipped last year.  Complete with birthing tables and infant warmers.  I was actually visiting within 30 minutes or so of two births.  However, due to privacy for the Mothers, I took no photos of them.

I am so excited for Kyeni!  Dr. Maina and I have already begun a list of priorities and inventory list for the next container, which I really hope to get to them before year-end.

This day was especially joyful for me because I got to reunite with my DEAREST friend here in Kenya, Fr Patrick Njiru.  He was literally the first Kenyan I met and who introduced me to Bishop Muheria.  Fr is now in a separate Diocese from Bishop but is close to Kyeni, so we were able to visit.

Fr Patrick in front of new Cathedral

Fr Patrick and Michael, my driver for 2 days, in front of the Parish Home where the Bishop lives, Priests stay for R&R and where I stay during visits

I concluded my visit by slipping Fr Patrick $740 for "step downs", the funny Kenyan name for electrical transformers.  Muthale's container had 30 pieces of equipment that ran on electricity but were 110 and not the 240 they operate on over here.

Off to Nairobi.  Very anxious about this.  My luggage has now been lost for 5 days and Michael is going to drive me past the airport to see if they have located it.  I'm getting REALLY tired of wearing the same clothes every day.  I'm also out of Malaria pills.  Ugh.

Whew!  My bag was at the airport.  First thing I did upon return to Norfolk Hotel was to grab a Tusker beer, take a hot shower and put on some CLEAN clothes!

DAY 3 - Friday, May 25 KYENI HOSPITAL

Sorry for the lag in postings.  Access to internet is limited here.  Anyway, it was great to reunite with Bishop Muheria.  We have really connected these past few years.  I feel like I've known him forever.  Here's our picture together on my last day in Kitui.  We have wide ranging conversations, from health care to politics to religion (both countries).  Bishop's obviously a significant spiritual leader in Kenya but I have been most impressed with his management skills, overseeing hundreds of churches, schools, medical facilities, etc.

Bishop Muheria and Ole Punda at Muthale Hospital

By the way, the Masai have a tradition of giving a Masai name to those who "walk among them".  My given name is Ole Punda.  Connotation - a man who bears heavy burdens.  Literal translation - Son of a Donkey.  Hummm.

My 2 day visit at Muthale Hospital was very successful.  Arrival of the digital X-ray machine was a really big deal (see earlier photo).  I feel they have a good management team more than capable of implementing our container of supplies and equipment.  Here is a photo of the key people:

From left to right: Fr Peter Muvea (Bishop's exec asst and my driver), Sister Margaret (medical operations "CEO"), Sister  Stella Mwelu (Hospital Administrator), Matron Flora Muchiri (Hospital Director) and THE Fr Joseph (Fr of local parish and who I call "Fr Master Negotiator")